Princeton engineer and cycling prodigy Nick Frey offers easy solutions to wind drag.
1. Cover all exposed brake and derailleur cables.
"This can be difficult, but I use a lot of electrical tape and flexible cables," says Frey. "You can tell that you have done a good job if you cannot see any cables when looking straight on at the bike from the front, seeing what the wind sees."
2. If you buy a time-trial helmet, make sure it's tail is flat against your back when you're in the aero position.
"Airflow separation between your helmet and back will negate much of the benefit of having the teardrop helmet in the first place."
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3. Smooth out.
"Always use a skinsuit with no wrinkles or excess fabric as well as spandex shoe covers. Do not wear gloves!"
4. Flatten out
"Make sure your forearms are parallel to the ground and that your thumbs point forward with flat aerobar extensions, giving you leverage to pull up on the extensions when going up steep power climbs while also making a more aerodynamic shape. Always think of what you look like to the wind."
5. Shield yourself
"Pedal with your knees and legs inward, so that your forearms block the wind for your legs. You want to be as low and narrow on the bike as possible while still being able to breathe and produce power. Roll your shoulders inward and keep your head as low as possible."
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6. Front first
"Most important in terms of aerodynamics is the front of your bike—it is the first thing to see 'clean' wind, and this means your front wheel, fork, aerobars and helmet are the most important pieces of equipment. I think the Zipp 1080 front wheel and Zipp Tangente tubular tire make up the fastest wheelset on the planet. An Oval Concepts A900 Jetstream fork with HED aerobar give you the most important thing: adjustability so it fits you perfectly. The new Giro TT helmet is great for a person with a good TT position and flat back, and the Louis Garneau Rocket is the best for a curved back."
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